Princess Kaiulani gown debut at Iolani Palace completes 10-year project

HONOLULU (HawaiiNewsNow) – An intricate reproduction of an ivory gown worn by Hawaiʻi’s last princess is now on display at ʻIolani Palace.

Read more Iolani Palace unveils Princess Kaiulani gown, completes royal garment project

The gown was unveiled this weekend in honor of the 151st birthday of Princess Kaʻiulani, niece of King Kalākaua and Queen Liliʻuokalani, and the last heir apparent to the Hawaiian Kingdom.

The dress embodies the Victorian-era construction of the original garment, and features elaborate floral designs reflecting her Hawaiian and Scottish heritage.

Crown flowers and pīkake represent Hawaiʻi, while Scottish thistles and poppies reflect her paternal ancestry and personal interests. The floral motifs surround a heart-shaped embellishment, using a quilting technique known as trapunto on the bodice.

“What makes this gown so special is how much of Princess Kaʻiulani’s story is reflected in its design,” said Hawaii Island-based historic dress designer Iris Viacrusis.

Viacrusis spent about two months researching the original garment —preserved at the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum — to reproduce it as accurately as possible.

The reproduction took about 450 hours of patternmaking, construction and beadwork.

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“The flowers represent both sides of her heritage, and the embroidery is incredibly detailed. I wanted to recreate those details as closely as possible, even if it meant searching through antique bead shops to find the right materials,” said Viacrusis.

The gown is the eighth piece in the Aliʻi Garment Reproduction Project, and completes a decade-long project to reproduce historic garments worn by Hawaiʻi’s royal family.

Paula Akana, president and CEO of The Friends of ʻIolani Palace, said much of what is publicly known about the royal family comes from photographs, documents, and personal belongings.

“These garments help us understand them in a different way, through the clothing they chose to wear and the details that reflected their identities,” Akana said. “(Princess Kaʻiulani’s) story represents a defining chapter in Hawaiian history, and we want future generations to know her beyond the images they have seen.”

The Friends of ʻIolani Palace launched the project in 2016 to preserve and share the history of Hawaiian royal fashion.

The gown arrived at the palace earlier this month and was received with Hawaiian protocol before it was unveiled to members Friday ahead of its public display.

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